It seems that my posts are down to about one a month lately. I’ve been working each day on my chicken coop project, but some days I can only put in a couple of hours as work and family keep me quite busy. So, what does a month of my spare time yield? Well, read on.
You can read the earlier posts in this series here:
- Chicken Coop Project – Part 1
- Chicken Coop Project – Part 2
- Chicken Coop Project – Part 3
- Chicken Coop Project – Part 4
I ended the last post in this series with the roof finished water-tight, so I could now work below without regard to the weather. At least now I can work with both feet on the ground.
To get started, I installed sheets of 7/16″ oriented strand board (OSB) to the wall studs. I attached them with ring shank nails, fired from my framing nailer. The OSB sheets covered the openings for the nesting boxes and windows, but that wasn’t a problem. I used a panel pilot router bit to plunge through the OSB and follow the framing lumber. This quickly cut out the openings.
I cut some smaller pieces to cover the area above, below, and beside the door opening. I then cut angled pieces of OSB and filled in the openings in the eves.
To install and flash the windows, I used a product called Vycor. It is a very, very sticky roll of tape about 6-inches wide. When pressed down with a pressure roller, it seals up well. I’m not worried about any water getting into this building.
I mentioned in a earlier post that I priced out Tyvek wrap and it was going to cost more than the OSB that it covers. I was going to just use tar-paper to save some money. My Dad told me that he thought there was some leftover Tyvek that he had given me from when his shed was built. I had a good look around, and sure enough, I found some. It was just enough to wrap the whole hen-house. Thanks Dad!
Once the building was wrapped with Tyvek, I installed the trim boards. For these I bought 5/4″ x 3″ and 5/4″ x 4″ pre-primed fascia boards. screwing a 3″ and 4″ board together in an “L” shape makes a corner board that appears evenly sized. If the boards were the same width, one part of the “L” would look longer than the other. I used the same pre-primed fascia to trim around the windows.
The local hardware store where I have bought all my materials gave me a good deal on an exterior out-swing door that had been sitting in their inventory. Out-swing exterior doors aren’t that common as the hinge pins are on the outside. This could be a security issue on a house, but not on this coop, I think. I could have used and interior door and installed it backwards, but those doors aren’t designed to be exposed to the elements, and would likely rot or warp in no time. Having the door swing outwards will be important as deep wood shavings / litter on the floor of the hen-house would stop the door from swinging inwards. With an out-swing door, I can install a ledger board on the inside of the bottom of the door frame, and this will prevent the wood shaving falling out of the door when it is opened.
I had a couple of days when it rained way too much to be able to work outside. I used this time to run all the wiring for the building. You may remember from the first post in this series, that I ran an underground power supply to the building before I poured the foundation. I tied into this and ran wires for lights and electrical outlets. I bought three FEIT LED shop lights from Costco for $35 each and I’m really impressed with how much light they put out. One light is in the hen-house and two are in the chicken run.
I will eventually hang the waterer and feeder from one of the roof trusses in the outdoor chicken run. To ensure that the water doesn’t freeze during the coldest parts of winter, I will need a heated waterer, and this in turn will need electricity. I installed a receptacle on the intended truss.
On other rainy days, I worked on cutting and fitting some insulation.
When the weather cleared up, I got busy installing the siding. I chose Hardie Plank siding for the project. I love this stuff. It is made out of a mixture of cellulose fiber and cement and pressed to look like wooden clapboards. Whats not to like? It can’t rot and is surprisingly cheap. This is the same siding that I put on my barn and that is on my house. It comes pre-primed and takes paint beautifully.
There are few important tricks to hanging this siding. First, get a pair of hanging guides. These clamp onto a lower plank and hold the upper plank in place while you nail it. This makes sure that your reveal is always constant. Pay special attention with a spirit level when you install the first plank, and then work your way up the building using the guides. I wouldn’t even attempt installing this type of siding without these guides. The ones I use are made by Pacific Tool and you can find them on Amazon. The plastic ones are cheaper, and are plenty strong enough for the home user. If I installed this stuff for a living, I’d probably buy the metal ones.
Next, don’t cut the siding with a saw. It’s cement, and it eats saw blades! Plus, it makes clouds of nasty cement dust that you really don’t want to breathe. Instead, score the planks with a speed square and utility knife, and then simply snap it. I also use a pair of nail pincers that I bought in England. I use the pincers to nip away any uneven parts along the snap line and to put a very small back bevel on the planks. My pincers look like this:
To cut the angle where the cement planks intersect with the underside of the roof, I used a sliding bevel set to 40° to match the 10/12 pitch.
The siding really wasn’t needed on the 4th wall of the hen-house, but it would look odd if different from the rest of the building.
Interior walls usually are sheathed in drywall or gypsum board. Since chickens love to scratch, I don’t plan on using drywall. Instead, I lined the interior walls with more sheets of OSB. This was also a cheap option, as the sheets only cost about $6.
As I did when I sheathed the outside of the walls, I attached the OSB and then cut out the window and nesting box openings with a panel pilot bit in the router.
It was around this time that the chicks arrived. I placed an order with the Murray McMurray hatchery. I ordered two female birds of each of the following 8 breeds:
- Buff Orpington
- Delaware
- Speckled Sussex
- Araucana
- Cuckoo Maran
- Rhode Island Red
- Red Star
- Plymouth Barred Rock
The post office called me at about 6am one morning and said that the birds had arrived. I went to pick them up and get them quickly into the brooder that I had set up for them.
Back to the building.
About 8 years ago, when I finished the garage on my house, I had a ton of baseboard moulding left over. It has sat under some cabinets in the garage all this time and whenever I clean up my shop it gets in the way. I have often thought of chopping it up and feeding it to the wood stove, but never have. I thought that now might be a good time to use it up. I know that it is baseboard moulding and not window trim, but I doubt that the chickens will mind.
Here’s what the windows looked like after I had added the trim:
I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Kilz 2 primer and started to paint the walls. Painting OSB is not fun as it takes a lot of paint, and you really have to work it in with the brush to get it into all the nooks and crannies in the surface. It was worth it though as it really brightens up the inside of the hen-house.
The room really got lighter when I painted the underside of the roof, but man this took forever.
Back to the chickens:
The brooder box that I had set up for the chickens was originally placed in our living room. This was fine for the first week as tiny chicks are no trouble. However, after a week the little critters were very active and scratching around in their wood shavings like crazy. The dust was simply getting too much.
The wife said, “Put them in the garage.”
“I don’t have a garage, it’s a workshop”, I replied.
You can imagine the response. I haven’t been using the workshop for a few months as all my efforts have gone into the building project. In short, the shop was a disaster. My workbench, table saw, and just about every other available surface was piled with the tools and “stuff” brought back into the shop from the coop project. I took a day off from building and thoroughly cleaned up the work shop.
I’m happy that I’m finally getting to using my Ambidextrous Grizz-ubo Bench, but this is not what I had in mind.
Before the chickens can be moved out to the new coop building, there are a few things that I have to get done. I need to build the roosts and the pull-out poop pit that goes underneath. I have to make doors that will cover the openings for the poop pit and nesting boxes (although the boxes themselves can wait). And, I have some linoleum that I need to glue down to the floor. Then I’ll need to add the wire to the chicken run walls. The wire is not as time sensitive, as I can confine the chickens to the hen-house for a short while.
I’m feeling the pressure to get this done, and I’m seriously afraid that the birds will be ready for the coop before I’m finished. Anyone have a tool for stretching a day into a few hours longer?
Hopefully, I’ll post again before another month has gone by, but I wouldn’t hold my breath.
– Jonathan White
Are there any plans to insulate the roof/attic area? Seems to be a waste to do the interior walls and not that. Or is there some reasoning behind that related to the chickens?
Also, I have heard that the RI Reds have a highly developed fashion sense and may say something about baseboard trim on the windows.
Haha! Thanks for the laugh Ralph. If the RI Reds want to be that finicky, I’ll have to introduce them to my friend the Colonel. Once glance at him should have them toeing the line.
No plans to insulate the roof. I thought about it, but with this truss design it would be a royal PITA. I wasn’t originally planning on insulating the coop at all, but the insulation that I did use only cost about $50. I figured that I might as well do it before I closed up the walls as it’s cheap insurance. It would be too difficult to go back and add insulation later if I discover that I need it. I hope you are well.
All the best,
Jonathan
Hey Jonathan
Exceptional work, I am simply gobsmacked at your skill, attention to detail and the aesthetics of the coop. You can really feel proud of the result. I think it is time to head indoors now, back to your workshop. I am sure it must be getting cold over your way by this time of year?
All the best
Gerhard
Hey Gerhard,
Thanks! I wish it was time to head back inside. This project has admittedly dragged on a little past my intended “summer project” idea. I have several things that I want to get done in the shop, but just haven’t had any spare time. It is starting to get cool here. It was about 37ºF last night and it was the first night this season that I had frost on the windshield. However, I’ll take 37ºF over 37ºC any day! 🙂 This coop would never have been built if I were working in heat like that.
All the best,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathon,
Don’t want to play devils advocate but the insulation in a ceiling will far outweigh the walls in terms of effectiveness. In Australia the most common reason for insulation is the heat gain rather then heat loss but like just about every place we have both ends of the climate. There are some diagrams floating around the net with percentages for roof,walls,ceiling etc. The quality of your build is certainly going to help with restricting unnecessary draughts and the birds generally have pretty good insulation themselves and clump together when roosting. Sounds like the cold in your part of the world will be the big issue temperature wise. There are some really good insulation boards that are rigid and can be fitted between the trusses from underneath if really needed but like painting ceilings- it sucks! Agree with the insulation in the walls though, no way do you want to do that after the fact. Looking good, hope time is on your side. I too have used up various moldings in outbuildings etc because they were there, most common comment ‘ Why did you bother?’ not ‘Gee, that’s the wrong one’.To which I have been known to respond with ‘ Because it finishes it off you clown.’
Hi Gav,
I agree with you completely. I realize that an insulated ceiling would be a major benefit if this were to be a heated space. I still need to add some small vents up high in the eves of the side walls as moisture and ammonia fumes are prone to build up in chicken coops without proper ventilation. This need for ventilation was the real reason that I felt insulating the coop was probably useless, however, as I said the wall insulation was only about $50 and I thought it couldn’t hurt. I liked your ‘Because it finishes it off you clown’ comment. Well put.
Take care,
Jonathan
Actually, I’ve been known to use more colourful language than that, depending on the situation. Do you guys have self driving vents that mount in the roof? Common here as a lot of roof spaces need to expel hot air , bit like me. They can even have an add on hinged bafffle where you can open and shut it from inside as you wish with a simple exhaust fan for a bathroom. Maybe something you operate when you check on their feed, gather eggs etc. Understand the moisture, ammonia issue . Maybe reducing the draughts and making it predator proof is the best option as the birds are pretty hardy all things considered. I am all for passive operating systems if achievable, it isn’t even set/forget , it is built in.
Gav,
I’ve seen the vents you mention that are used for venting hot air from an attic space. I don’t think that venting heat will be a problem where I live. I’ve installed four windows in the coop that will have metal screens on the inside and will allow for major venting most of the year. The vents that I will put up high in the eves will hopefully help to vent any fumes from the droppings without creating a draft. We’re in full agreement on making things passively functional, even the small chicken door from the hen house to the run is going to be automatic.
Thanks for all your comments and thoughts. I really appreciate the folks that come on here and share their ideas and even constructive criticism. I often find that it causes me to up my game and I end up with a better finished product, whatever I’m making.
All the best,
Jonathan
Very nice building. those chicks are going to love it…
I too was thinking about adding roof insulation, but I never thought about the ammonia fumes etc.
That could be an hazard I guess unless you have provision for some effective venting.
Don’t know much about chicken coop requirements, I’m afraid..
I’m sure they will be growing up fast, talk about incentive to move the build along :-).
Cheers
Bob and Rudy the love sponge
Hey Bob,
It’s good to hear from you. I hope all is well and that the new pup isn’t driving you crazy. You’re right about the fast growing chicks. It’s actually causing me quite a bit of stress as I’m not sure I’m going to be done in time. Well, I guess I’ll just have to be.
Moisture and ammonia buildup in the chicken coop is actually quite bad for the birds, it leads to respiratory illnesses. This makes it very important that a coop is ventilated. I thought about adding some rigid foam board insulation to the underside of the roof, but then I thought if I’m adding vents, the insulation probably wasn’t going to do much. Along those same lines, the insulation in the walls was probably not of much use, but it was easy to install and cheap, so I went for it. The cost and difficulty of installation of the rigid foam insulation made me draw the line at that point.
Please send my regards to Heather.
All the best,
Jonathan
You’d better get yourself some fancy-arsed chickens for that coop, brother.
I’m no fancy chicken, but I’d stay in that thing…
Hey Ethan,
I don’t know about fancy, but I think that they are going to need to lay about 50,000 eggs to pay for their new digs. If you lay eggs, you’ll be welcome to stay in it too!
Jonathan