The benchtop has been flattened with handplanes and the benchdog holes are all drilled and chamfered. It’s time to apply some finish to the workbench top.
No surprises here, I’m using hot Danish Oil once again.
Applying hot danish oil to the benchtop.
I have previously written ad nauseam about my process for applying Danish Oil, so I wont go into it all here again now. However, I should point out that I did make a small change to my usual method. I did not “sand in” any of the coats. While that method results in a beautiful and smooth surface, it’s not exactly what one wants on a workbench top. So, I applied the oil and wiped off the excess an hour later. Nothing else.
The finish soaked in quite quickly.
To apply finish to the inside of the dog holes, I used a small leather dyer’s daubber. I wanted to get a couple of coats of oil into the dog holes because they are primarily end grain. The oil soaks into end grain very well, and once it cures, it should help slow any moisture changes in the benchtop.
I used a daubber to apply finish inside the dog holes.
I applied the first coat very heavily and kept applying it until it would soak in no longer. The second and third coats went on much quicker. I waited about two days between coats.
Over a week, I applied three coats.
In the next post, I’ll shoe how I made all the benchdogs for the workbench.
More soon.
– Jonathan White
Curious as to what the odor level was like doing this?
It actually wasn’t bad. I don’t find danish oil to have a really strong smell. Generally, danish oils are (roughly) 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part resin (some sort of poly type finish), and one part thinners. So, I know that there are thinners in it that is intended to evaporate. Whatever thinners they do use must not be of the particularly nexus type. If the thinner was naptha or something strong like that, I think I would have had to set up fans and open the garage door.
NO kidding. How do you handle volatiles? I did search for a link to your previous “written ad nauseum”, couldn’t find it. That is an awesome over-the-top workbench.
Hello Michael,
Thanks for your comments. Perhaps you’re right, I have not written an individual post on exactly how I apply Danish Oil. I have however, used Danish Oil on just about every one of my projects for the last year and a half. I felt like I got to the point where I was explaining how I applied the finish in every one of my projects. I thought people might be getting sick of it. Maybe I’ll do a post in the future showing the process in depth and then I can link to that post whenever I reference it in another. The very brief summary is:
○ Heat the oil to about 170°.
○ Apply very heavy coat.
○ Keep applying until no more soaks in.
○ After an hour, wipe off all the excess.
○ Put wet oily rag in the wood stove and burn it.
○ Second coat is applied with 220 grit paper and wet sanded in.
○ Wipe off excess and burn rag.
○ Third coat is applied with 320 grit paper and wet sanded in.
○ Wipe off excess and burn rag.
○ Fourth coat is applied with 400 grit paper and wet sanded in.
○ Wipe off excess and burn rag.
○ After the finish is thoroughly cured (several days), apply two coats of paste wax if applicable to project (not a workbench top).
Thanks for pointing this out. I’ll put a post together in the future. Oh, and I just checked out your blog. It’s great, I’ll be sure to read it more often.
All the best,
Jonathan
So know we now why you put in so many holes thru the top, it was to control moisture contents 🙂
Bob
Hello Bob,
Yeah… Ummm…. That’s the excuse I should use.
I only just discovered today that you have started your own blog. I’ll have to go and catch up on all your posts. Your site looks great!
All the best,
Jonathan
Wow, the bench is looking great. Congrats.
Thanks Siavosh. It’s been a lot of work, but well worth it.
All the best,
Jonathan